Fal Estuary Historic Audit

This is one of the finest natural harbours in the world, and has served as a refuge for shipping for thousands of years. A drowned river, it now consists of a deep tidal basin opening into Falmouth Bay fed by numerous rivers and creeks. The estuary is tidal for a distance of 18 kilometres inland and has a shoreline totalling about 115 kilometres in length. Human activity around the estuary probably dates back to the Mesolithic, when sea level in south west England was an estimated 35 metres lower than today. Submerged forest deposits recorded at a number of locations are probably of this date. Evidence for later prehistoric and Romano-British occupation is provided by the remains of barrows, cliff castles, and defended farmsteads (rounds). During the early medieval period the basic rural settlement pattern that endures today was established, place name evidence makes it possible to recreate the distribution of pre-Norman farming estates and early Christian Lanns; enclosed settlements containing a chapel, a burial ground, and a few houses. Some of the latter developed into the medieval parish churches which are tucked up many of the estuary's creeks. From medieval times the Fal Estuary became a major focus in Cornwall for local and foreign trade, and its position on the south coast made it ideal for contact with the continent.

Ports, such as Truro, Tregony, and Penryn, were initially established at the heads of navigable creeks where they had good access to their hinterlands and were less prone to raids by pirates and enemy ships. However, the gradual silting up of the upper part of the estuary with waste from tin workings and the increased size of ocean going ships led to ports being established nearer the estuary mouth, which had been rendered less vulnerable to attack in the 16th century by the construction of artillery forts. Falmouth, in particular, defended by Pendennis and St Mawes Castles, rapidly developed into a port of international renown. The haven's strategic location at the gateway to the English Channel made it very important in terms of coastal defences and it was successively fortified over a period of 400 years (from 1540 to World War II), and Pendennis Headland is one of the most important military complexes in the country. In addition to fortifications, there are numerous other post-medieval sites and structures around the estuary, reflecting intensive activity associated with industry, trade and maritime safety and regulation.

Comprehensive information about the historic resource of the estuary was required to ensure that well-informed policies for the historic environment could be included in strategic guidelines being drawn up by the Falmouth Bay and Estuaries Initiative (FBEI). Part of English Nature's Estuaries Initiative, the FBEI is aimed at promoting the long-term, sustainable use of the area. Cornwall Archaeological Unit carried out an historic audit of the Fal Estuary, funded primarily by EH, but with financial contributions from the District and County Councils. The historic complements to 2 other studies commissioned by the FBEI; an ecological overview and an examination of the coastal processes affecting the estuary.

This is the first opportunity in Cornwall for the historic environment to be fully integrated in an estuarine management strategy. The project has also served as a pilot in Cornwall for studying the history of an estuary and coastal archaeology, and for integrating information on wrecks (provided by the Royal Commission on the Historical Monuments for England) and World War II sites (identified by the Defence of Britain Project). The aim of the audit (which included a desktop assessment and limited fieldwork) was to gain an overall impression of the historic environment, the historic components that comprise it, and its management requirements. The emphasis was on rapid recording of sites and structures which are estuary specific by virtue of their location and/or function. A report of the results of the audit is currently being compiled and when completed will form the basis for the future protection, conservation, and promotion of the historic heritage of Cornwall's most important estuary.